Europe Part 2: Another night on a wall.

Robbie sent Bellavista!

After a few wet days in the Zillertal where I didn’t get up much and Robbie managed to claw his way up Total Brutal we returned to the Tre Cime for Bellavista. The weather continued to be unstable but we kept working at it anyway. Conditions stayed bad with the rock feeling like soap covered marble.  I managed to unlock all of the moves of the crux pitch but didn’t put much effort into the epic linkage required. Robbie improved on days 3 and 4 although still struggled with committing to the sequences due to the nature of the rock, protection and exposure. We rested on Sunday the 3^rd and spent time considering our options. Almost two weeks had past and I wondered how much more time this route would take. We decided that despite Robbie not having climbed through the crux of the pitch we would go ground up on the Monday and if shut down at the crux we would leave to chase another objective for a while. This was exactly the pressure needed for Robbie to go ‘amuerte’ on the crux.

Rest day dinner in the Dolomites.

Day 5:

We awoke at 5am and made our way to the base of the Cima Ouest. Luckily for me Robbie had decided he needed to lead the scariest of the pitches as well as the hardest to be happy with his ascent. This meant the initial 7b was all his and I had the luxury of a top rope. He climbed excruciatingly slowly and precisely as one slip would mean possible injury and he would have to repeat the pitch. He linked the pitch into the following 6c and I continued the linkage trend by climbing one super pitch consisting of the 6a, 7a, and 7a+ all feeling as though they had a good coating of butter. We were then at the roof and the start of the crux.

Robbie aided out the traverse powdering the slippery holds with chalk before returning to the belay. A small rest with some chocolate and fluids and he was off. He powered through the start of the crux where he had been consistently falling generally due to lack of commitment rather than fatigue. Suddenly he was at a jug rest having done the hardest slippery section of the route. Only a sequency endurance ~8a left to add on. 20m of power screams truncated by silence as he found rests continued to the end of the route.  As he reached the anchor for once all the hoots and hollering came from us rather than the tourists watching down below. He had even switched off from the fear of the position to skip several pitons which made following with some obligatory climbing very interesting.

I dropped our fixed rope from the belay so we could take it with us which meant we were now committed. No matter what we were gunning for the summit. We had played on the following 8a our previous day on the route and to our surprise found it to be closer to 7b+. Robbie wanted to lead this too for the true lead ascent and I was happy to be taken along for the ride. It went first attempt and we were through the roof and into unrehearsed ground. I thought we were making ok time and it would be just a matter of cruising to the top. Things never seem to work out that way though and we wasted an hour or more climbing some crazy run outs past a bolt and into choss on the 7a before we realised we were going totally off route. Once back on track we climbed three pitches, which were not straight forward, and occasionally scarily run out to ledge half way up the Cime. All the unique climbing of Bellavista was done and only the long easy slabs of the classic Cassin route originally done 80 years ago remained.

Unfortunately it was 6:30pm and with only an hour and a half of light left we had a couple of options to consider. It had been a dry day and the upper slabs although still wet looked passable. We could go for the top probably doing a large portion in the dark by head torch before a forced bivvy on the summit or we could have a forced bivvy on the ledge we were on which had a small roof and finish off the climb in the morning.  Some clouds had been building up but we hadn’t yet had the rain and minor thunderstorm we had had most other days. The weather had mentioned there was the possibility of no afternoon thunderstorm but with the clouds that had built up I wondered if it was just going to be delayed till later in the evening.  We were tired and took the less epic option of staying on the ledge with the small roof. It got dark by around 8 and the sky opened. Pouring rain, thunder and lightning for the entire night. Our decision not to blast on for the summit was a lifesaver. We huddled freezing in our down jackets and got little to no sleep.

Our sheltered ledge for the night half way up Cima Ouest.

 Day 6:

The upper slabs became a waterfall and everything was soaked. I traversed an easy pitch to the start of the upper route and belayed Robbie over whilst standing in a waterfall. I was now freezing and soaked. We made the decision to bail but didn’t know how as rappelling over the roof below would be impossible. I had a vague idea that there was a way to traverse all the way right, along the weakness the ledge we had bivvied on was associated with, which would lead to an exit from the face. I am not sure where I got it from but it wasn’t true. We monkeyed along a rail for two pitches past rusty fixed protection where the Cassin route traversed in. Eventually the Cassin route continued down and right on rusty pins in a way we couldn’t follow. Instead I climbed another 10m without gear and found a shiny new bolted anchor hidden around a corner. We knew a couple of German climbers who had climbed a new bolted 7c somewhere on this section of the face and figured that this must be it. There was even chalk on the holds. We couldn’t traverse any more right so we started rappelling. I had to back clip some bolts and swing around to reach the lower anchors but they kept on appearing and after an hour or so we were back on solid ground.

It was awesome to be part of Robbies achievement in freeing all the Bellavista pitches and a fun couple of days out getting stuck on a ledge yet again. Now we can do some sport climbing before focusing on another big objective. We are constantly talking about The Eiger although with the wettest summer in 30 years (apparently) it won’t be in good condition. We shall see what the weather does over the next couple of weeks anyway and maybe go play on it.

Made a timelapse of the sunset and managed to get this shot with some lightning in it.

Europe Part 1: Bellavista

After 30 hours of travel from the Blue Mountains I arrived in Munich, met an overly psyched Robbie Phillips, and picked up a hire car. We drove directly to our main goal of the trip, Bellavista 8b+/c, on the Tre Cima de Laverado in the Italian Dolomites. We should have checked the weather first as it was raining with no break forecast for the following week.

After driving back along the way we came we arrived at a climbing area called The Zillertal, which has areas climbable in the rain. The granite crags of The Zillertal are a major sport climbing and bouldering destination as well as an amazing place to hang out.

While waiting for the weather to clear we visited the steep crag of Bachexe where we threw ourselves at an amazing 8a called Electric Avenue.  Robbie managed the send after a few shots and I came close falling off the end of the crux sequence. We also met a strong German crusher, named Paul Steinig, who was on a climbing trip with his mother. He is one of the young guns you occasionally meet while travelling and wonder how far they will push the sport in the future.

Electric Avenue 8a. Bachexe, Zillertal.

The day after Bachexe we visited a route that Robbie had been frothing about since the trip was planned. ‘Total Brutal’ 8b+ is a chipped and glued test piece that gets its classic status due to its position over a road. Paul and his mum turned up and we all threw ourselves at the route although it is hard with big moves and small crimps. Only Robbie showed signs of possibly doing the route. Afterwards Paul suggested we go and try the first 8A boulder problem in The Zillertal. It is a long traverse and didn’t feel as hard as a true 8A boulder. Paul and I fell off the end several times and Robbie sent. We all had completely different ways of doing the problem.

Robbie flexing for the camera on Total Brutal 8b+.

Paul Steinig on Total Brutal 8b+.

Me working hard on the 8A traverse.

A rest day, a visit back to Total Brutal for Robbie, and an easy afternoon on an enjoyable 7c+ and the weather started to look unsettled rather than just really bad in the Dolomites.  Paul and his mother took us out to a nice dinner fuelling us up for the days ahead. We loaded up with supplies and headed to Bellavista.

Day 1:

Our plan was to try the first 5 pitches up to the roof where the crux pitch of the route is located. The first pitches are only up to 7b climbing although they are incredibly run out on loose and slippery rock, as well as rusty pins. The initial rusty pin on the first 7b pitch was almost 10m off the deck! I led the first pitch while thinking of how even Robbie had slipped off a 6a+ the day before.  The following pitches went well with Robbie navigating through a 7a and 7a+ combined pitch on super wet and slippery rock. It was like the face was coated in olive oil.

Once under the roof we had extra time so we pulled along a fixed static line feeling the holds on the initial section of the crux 8b+/c pitch. They were soaking wet, super slippery but surprisingly large.  I was dismayed at the distance between two of the jugs, which Robbie could span easily. There was a small crimp in between but it was difficult to hold. After a short play each we headed down static ropes that were fixed to the deck allowing for a quick escape. Although it had been raining most of the day we had stayed dry due to the steepness of the route.

Cima Ouest. Bellavista heads up to the roof and breaks out left.

To say I was excited is an understatement!

Robbie following the first pitch.

Robbie following the 3rd pitch.

Me on the start of the crux pitch.

Day 2:

On the second day we focused on the crux pitch. I jumared up the initial five pitches and settled in at the crux belay. A fair while later Robbie joined me after struggling with his jumaring setup. Robbie climbs incredibly hard but is new to being on a large route. I couldn’t imagine having my first big route experience on something like Bellavista.  It reminds me of being thrown in the deep end in the Bugaboos a long time ago with Lawrence although we were only climbing up to 5.12-.

The crux pitch of Bellavista is a large traverse and has a mid point anchor. We both worked the first half with the large span in the roof still giving me trouble. The second half of the route we worked separately and was consistently technical and sustained although not as boulder as the first. Everything went smoothly except for one incident when Robbie fell only a draw out from the anchor, and being a lot heavier than me, launched me into the roof above the anchor I was sitting on.  Luckily I was wearing my helmet, which sustained a small dent.

I had the realization that despite the pitch only feeling about 8b and very projectable for me I was not going to be able to do it quickly or on demand for when we go ground up on the entire route. Robbie is a fair bit stronger so with my experience on the wall and his ability to crush it would be possible for him to climb it. So the focus is now for Robbie to get his sequence memorized and to block out in his mind the position on the wall the pitch is. When we go ground up he will lead the crux pitch and then we will epic through the easier terrain to the top hopefully not getting benighted although it seems highly likely.

At the belay for the crux pitch.

Robbie trying the second half of the crux pitch.

Second half of the crux pitch.

After climbing the crux pitch we abseiled down a large
loop we fixed and jumared back up to the anchor. Exposure!

Robbie's feet with a small amount of space beneath them.

It is raining with thunderstorms again and we need rest. We are back in The Zillertal for a few days before returning to Bellavista. We left our draws and a fixed rope on the crux pitch so we have to go back up!

Flamin’ Gallah!

After the relief of sending a long-term project in Punks in the Gym that had been buried in my psyche for so long, it was time for some bigger adventures.

Zac Vertrees introduced me to the limestone walls of Bungonia Gorge about 3 hours from the Blue Mountains through a route called Teflon and his mega multipitch project (32ish?) above it. Teflon is an incredible 31 that I need to go back for as I only had one shot before we committed to the pitches above. His route is hard and bold. I backed of a grade 16 lichen covered slab pitch, which Zac thought too easy to warrant bolts.  While I belayed Zac as he worked the crux pitch I eyed up some amazing lines bathed in sun on the opposite wall of the gorge.

The stand out line is a relatively recent addition called Flamin’ Gallah and was supposed to be the hardest multipitch in the gorge, maybe even Australia.  It is seven pitches, which weigh in at a hefty 24, 21, 19, 23, 26, 31, and 27. The golden headwall with all the difficulties looked amazing.

Several weeks later I was back with Matt Pickles who had been tearing up the Blue Mountains crags with quick ascents up to grade 32. We decided on a strategy of rapelling in and rehearsing the crux top pitch so that we would have the highest chance of redpointing the route on a ground up ascent. We had two shots each working the moves on the 31 and found it to be closer to 29. Maybe we found an easier sequence than the first ascentionist?

In good condition and psyched, on the way to the gorge. All photos Matt Pickles.

Pre-inspection of the crux pitch on day one.

On our second day we woke early. It was near 0 degrees and there was ice covering the car. We walked into the gorge trying to warm up and eventually found the base of the first grade 24 pitch. It has an intense 2 bolt boulder off the ground and is a terrible warm up! While Matt was cruising the second pitch Lee Cossey and Andrea Hah appeared beneath us. They were also trying the route but had not done a pre inspection of the crux pitches.

I fell quite a few times on the grade 26 pitch as it was technically very hard to read. There was no chalk and lichen covered a lot of the slab. Matt followed and also fell on second. He added some more chalk and ticked key holds. Andrea following us made an impressive flash of the pitch as it was not easy even when you knew where the holds were.  Lee, of course, walked it.

Andrea flashing the technical grade 26 pitch.

Andrea belaying Lee up to the base of the crux pitch.

 Matt was first up leading the crux 31 pitch. He fell on the crux stab to a pointer finger mono hold and lowered back to the belay. We pulled the rope and I was up. I felt terrible and shook my way to the crux moves but somehow managed to keep on shaking all the way through to the anchor. I lowered back to the belay so Matt could have another lead shot in which he easily sent the pitch. We gave the beta to Lee who was going for the flash of the route. He got very close but fell towards the end of the crux sequence.

While Lee and Andrea worked the crux pitch Matt and I lowered down and both climbed the 26 pitch clean on second. We had to get back up the crux pitch to continue on our way, which was an effort after all the climbing we had done.  We had a good view from the upper belay of the crux pitch as Lee walked it on his second shot. Andrea had a good attempt but fatigue got the better of her and she didn’t manage to free the pitch.

Pulling my way up the crux pitch with the pack.

Lee cruising the crux pitch on his second go.

In the mean time I was having issues on the final pitch, which has a very morpho (reachy) move to reach the jugs to the top of the gorge.  Matt cruised the pitch on lead to nab the second ascent of the route, an amazing achievement. I couldn’t work out the final move and was shut down which was very frustrating. Sometimes a reachy move on even an easy pitch can shut me down and it sucked that there would be a move like this at the very end to cost me the ascent.

After walking back to the car we waited around to get all our draws (we had left them on the final two pitches) off Lee and Andrea before we drove, very sore and tired, back to the Blue Mountains.

A big congratulations to Matt on the second ascent, and Lee on the third (in very good style!). It is definitely one of the coolest multipitches around and should probably be downgraded to 29 as we all thought the 31 pitch very soft.

Bucket List Tick

It has been a great few months culminating in one of my best redpoints ever. Punks in the Gym, my long-term project, has finally succumbed. I had been caught up in a psychological battle with this route. It took three and a half years after falling off near the top of the route, after both cruxes, to come back and finally link it through to the anchors. All up 5 years since I had first touched the glassy holds.

There were two main factors that made the difference for me allowing the send. The first was getting a fair bit stronger and the second was getting rid of the mental aspect of the route. This trip I turned up with no expectations. I felt I had bad preparation in the weeks leading up to the trip and so I jumped on other routes to try and test my fitness rather than being demoralized on Punks. I worked Lord of the Rings (31) and Slinkin Leopard (28) the morning of the send which was the day after a big day on Lord, Punks and Ethiopia (30). A huge lunch and hours of laying on a rock led to a training lap on Punks, to develop some muscle memory on the crux moves before my next rest period. My arms felt like lead and I had hardly any skin on my tips but I felt happy from trying so many awesome new moves on other routes. The rock felt sticky and before I knew it I was howling having clipped the chains. It was still a shaky send and I almost fell on the slab at the top again but it was enough.

Post send video of Punks in the Gym.

This last two-week break from work has definitely been one of my best in terms of sport climbing with Punks in the Gym (32), a second shot send of Eye of the Tiger (29), quick send of Ethiopia (30) thanks to some key beta from Malcolm Matheson, and the first ascent of The Arkenstone (30) in the Blue Mountains.  There’s no doubt moving to the Blue Mountains and being around other strong motivated climbers has enhanced my progression as a climber. I am excited to train hard and see what I can achieve overseas in the second half of the year.

Jack Masel joined me from Perth and got close to Eye of the Tiger (29) at Muline in the Grampians. Photo by Stuart Simons.