End of Summer -

My beta changed again. In August I spent a lot of time on Cobra Crack and things really came together. I am not sure if all my playing around from the previous two months acted as training or I just took a long time to figure out the easiest way to do things but there was serious progress.  Suddenly the impossible was possible and I was getting big links. I was able to do every move every time off the rope. It had become just a matter of time.  

Finishing off the easier climbing before the real difficulties begin. Photo: Alon Brookstein.

Place some gear and go for it! Photo: Alon Brookstein.

The problem was that summer in Squamish didn’t evolve into the magic cool, dry, and sticky conditions of fall I was told would eventuate. When things started to cool down the rain came. A lot of it! In two days we had around 130mm of rain, which started the Cobra Crack seeping. It slowly dried out over a week and I managed to get one day where only the start footholds were wet.

I gave it everything I had climbing through the crux undercling mono move but failing on the large move up over the lip. If I stuck that it may have gone down. I had been getting so solid on it that on the previous day I had tried it I had done three laps in a row from below the last gear placement near the beginning of the difficulties to the top.  I felt with two weeks left I would certainly be able to get it done. Then it rained again and has continued to do so on and off just enough to keep the crack seeping and out of reach.

Out at Chekamus Canyon while we were dodging the rain on some easy sport. Photo: Pat

Pulling through the lower crux on The Cobra Crack. Picture: Alon Brookstein.

I now leave for Liming, China again to try my mega roof crack project, The Honeycomb Dome. I am actually incredibly happy about how my summer went considering I would never have thought The Cobra Crack within my abilities. I almost can’t believe I got so close but know I will get it quickly when I come back. I am also psyched to project The Honeycomb Dome with the belief that I can take down these difficult lines. I am also well rested from waiting out the rain so I can attack Liming with renewed energy and drive. It s going to be a great time with an amazing crew and I look forward to seeing all the projects that will be getting their first ascents by all the good climbers visiting.