Tuesday, April 3, 2012


After 6 weeks of walking up hills with a pack and sitting around in an apartment eating way too much while waiting for good weather I have now made it to Siurana in Spain. The climbing here is sharp and crimpy with the majority of routes being vertical to slightly overhanging. Siurana itself is an old town perched on a plateau above some amazing limestone cliffs.
Siurana Town.
View from Siurana of the cliffs we are climbing on.
Siurana laneway.
There is a strong crew of climbers from around the world here and everyday people are throwing themselves at routes up to grade 9a+ (36). It is always surprising the people you run into multiple times when climbing at random cliffs around the world. So far I have met people here that I have previously climbed with at Ceuse, Kalymnos, The Getu Valley, and Arapiles.
Relaxing after a days climbing :)
My first two weeks have been about trying to regain some sort of sport climbing fitness as alpine climbing has a way of altering your body's natural movement and lowering your centre of gravity. I have been trying to climb a higher volume of easier routes to try and speed the process while having the occasional shot on something harder to make sure my power doesn't diminish. It is a bit frustrating falling off routes only two months ago I would have done easily but I am making sure I keep a positive mindset and have already noticed improvement. I am hoping I can lose some of the weight I put on in Patagonia (especially in my legs) as fast as I put it on.
L'Escamarla 7c+ (28). Mega classic and hardest route I've done so far here, which i sent second go. Belayed by Mayan, photo by American Chris.
I will be around Siurana for the month of April and have picked a couple of projects that should be good training whether I get them or not. One is an endurance based 8b+ (32) that i feel no where near even though the moves aren't that hard and another is a power based 8b (31). Both are amazing routes!