Success

Sticking the lip of the Cobra Crack. Photo: Garrett Bradley

My trip is over and I sent the Cobra. It didn’t go as easy as when Mason cruised it (Video). In fact I shook, clawed and screamed my way through the top out using an unlikely sequence I had just put together because I knew I didn’t have the core for the traditional seemingly easier way. The difference between that shot and the previous months on the route came down to how hard I was trying. Instead of being perfect in my movement I just gritted my teeth more and refused to let go.

So stoked to join this incredible list. Photo: Ji Yun

 After my last blog I had a couple more weeks on the route and still hadn’t got my high point from the previous season. I felt like it wasn’t going to happen. I almost gave up. It was hot and smokey in August and I gave the Cobra a couple of shots once a week and tried some other things. I jumped on Division Bell for more power endurance training and fell off the end a multitude of times. I didn’t want to use the knee bar rest as it wouldn’t be good training. Eventually I got frustrated and decided I wanted to send something. I got sick of failure. I could see the season coming to an end and more training wasn’t what was needed. The only thing I could change this late in the trip to give me success was my psyche.  The first step was to choose to send. Putting a knee pad on, utilizing the rest and sending Division Bell was a mental turning point. Trainings over its time to perform.

Division Bell. Photo: Ji Yun

Doug McConnell from The Blue Mountains turned up to try the Cobra as well and I had a dedicated psyched partner. Instead of the usual routine of jumping straight on I warmed up by having a top rope burn with a lot of resting on the rope. I tried really hard and moved quickly resting less on the good holds.  First day with Doug I hit my all time high point. I analysed why I fell and changed my sequence to one that utilized muscles that weren’t as burnt. Next day I sent. I was probably strong enough to send the route at the beginning of the previous season but I obviously wasn’t smart enough. Hopefully I’ve learnt something about hard projects from this experience and become a better climber.

I was so burnt mentally and physically from the experience I didn’t get up to a lot in September. I went sport climbing and took it easy. My motivation wasn’t low but it wasn’t high either. I did really enjoy clipping bolts and getting pumped on crimps again. A crew of us hit up a crag called Equinox in Washington over a couple of weekends, which was incredibly fun. Zero commitment high quality pumpy climbing. A highlight of the month was a route called Fight Club 5.13c.

Resting at the half way anchor of Fight Club 5.13c at Equinox, Washington. Photo: Rick Willison.

In the final sequence of Fight Club 5.13c at Equinox, Washington. Photo: Rick Willison.

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Since I felt a bit directionless I decided to head back to Australia. I want to spend a bit of time hitting up routes on the east coast I’ve wanted to do for a long time and catch up with some old friends. Climbing at the classic Pet Wall at Murrin Park and struggling up a technical 12c (named Animal) on my second shot before heading to a BBQ with the Squamish crew was a great final day. I am going to miss this place and am sure I'll be back someday.