Thursday, March 1, 2012

Guillaumet

 Despite not being one of the more difficult peaks to attain in Patagonia, Guillaumet has some quality lines on it. Owen and I climbed The Brenner Ridge which consists of easy ridge climbing and a couple of hand cracks in the low sixes. The rock quality is exceptionally good and the views amazing. The best part about the route is how fast you can do it from town, which is perfect for a short weather window such as the one we just had. 
 At 2pm on Wednesday we took a short taxi ride from El Chalten to the start of the approach at the Rio Electrico (Electric River). A flat 2 hour walk along the river led to the Piedra del Fraile campground before another 2 hour uphill slog began to the Piedra Negra (black rock) bivvy. We rested here for the night waking up to resume the climb at 5am. A long scramble up a scree slope led to the start of the Brenner Ridge and the beginning of the roped climbing. We simul-climbed the whole thing except three pitches in the middle, the upper of which was the highlight, consisting of a perfect red/gold camalot sized crack on golden granite. The whole route took us around 11 hours return from the Piedra Negra bivvy. Once down we packed up the gear we had left at the bivvy site and continued on back to Rio Electrico where we luckily snagged a ride, just before dark, back to town. The day ended with us enjoying a massive Argentinean steak and roast potatoes :)
Its a long way down. (Taken a few meters from the summit).
Owen during the descent.
Scree on the glacier.
 Unfortunately my camera decided to purge itself of a majority of my photos for some reason. Luckily most of them had already been put on my laptop but the ones i took during the first half of this climb (the ascent) were lost :( Owen has a bunch on his camera though, which I'll hopefully put up at some later stage.

1 comment:

Unknown said...

Hey! Just stumbled on your blog searching for something else... I'm pretty sure you were the two guys climbing this while my boyfriend and I were on the Comesana-Fonrouge on the same day... glad you guys got down ok and looks like the rest of your time down there was sweet... enjoy Spain... I'm headed back to europe in a couple of weeks too, psyched for some sunny rock!
Maria.