Despite not being one of the more difficult peaks to attain in Patagonia, Guillaumet has some quality lines on it. Owen and I climbed The Brenner Ridge which consists of easy ridge climbing and a couple of hand cracks in the low sixes. The rock quality is exceptionally good and the views amazing. The best part about the route is how fast you can do it from town, which is perfect for a short weather window such as the one we just had.
At 2pm on Wednesday we took a short taxi ride from El Chalten to the start of the approach at the Rio Electrico (Electric River). A flat 2 hour walk along the river led to the Piedra del Fraile campground before another 2 hour uphill slog began to the Piedra Negra (black rock) bivvy. We rested here for the night waking up to resume the climb at 5am. A long scramble up a scree slope led to the start of the Brenner Ridge and the beginning of the roped climbing. We simul-climbed the whole thing except three pitches in the middle, the upper of which was the highlight, consisting of a perfect red/gold camalot sized crack on golden granite. The whole route took us around 11 hours return from the Piedra Negra bivvy. Once down we packed up the gear we had left at the bivvy site and continued on back to Rio Electrico where we luckily snagged a ride, just before dark, back to town. The day ended with us enjoying a massive Argentinean steak and roast potatoes :)
|Its a long way down. (Taken a few meters from the summit).|
|Owen during the descent.|
|Scree on the glacier.|