Saturday, June 9, 2012

Ceuse 2012 part 1

After leaving Buoux we only had two climbing days at St Leger as it was too hot and humid. Despite the dismal conditions Will managed to send his 8a project while i got frustrated and stripped my draws off the 8b i thought i was close to but in reality probably wasn't. We then raced to Ceuse for the cooler temps and better quality rock.
Upon arrival we were told that "Ondra's kicking about". A little bit excited to see the climber that has taken the "worlds best climber" crown off Sharma we wondered when/if we would see him. I had high hopes for my climbing the first day and decided i would try and crush an 8b to get me started here. After i warmed up i noticed someone had beaten me to my project. "I hope they dont take ages" i thought. I then watched as Ondra walked up the 8b as his warm up without even trying! I have since fallen all over it and have decided to leave it later in the trip when i am alot fitter.
Since that climb i have been dropping grades wondering were all my fitness on small crimps is and wether i had just tried all the soft routes on previous trips here so that now i was only left with the sandbagged ones? Theres something about Ceuse though which calms the soul. Any other area and my backward progress and lack of success would cause some serious frustration but the setting and quality of climbing here is so good you cant help but end each day happy. Also is there any other sport where you get to mingle with the worlds best without buying a ticket?
Yesterday a large crowd gathered under the Biographie sector to watch Ondra try to flash Realization 9a+. That means to climb an aussie grade 36 first shot but with information on the route. It was only 10 years ago this was the first 9a+ in the world climbed by Sharma after alot of attempts, an unbelievable achievement at the time. To climb this first shot would be a huge leap forward in the understanding of what is possible. It was amazing to watch and no he didnt do it. He fell on the boulder problem up high in the realization extension. He did however flash the Biographie 8c+ part which is an achievement in itself.

Tense times at the Biographie sector.

Ondra crushing within the famous blue streak of Biographie.

1 comment:

Lee Cujes said...

Thanks Logan. I read about Ondra on your blog before I even saw it on Awesome stuff to witness man. Keep enjoying your trip, here's to some nice ticks.