Thursday, September 27, 2012

Rodellar and Riglos

It seems my time in Europe is quickly coming to an end. I have rejoined Will and visited the famous crag of Rodellar. I had heard mixed reports about the area and I left with mixed feelings. During the first couple of days both Will and I got shut down on climbs we expected to do easily. We had both heard the area was soft so our egos were bruised when we started having troubles. I would normally say I am ok at steep limestone but wrestling with tufas or doing big moves between chipped and glued jugs is not my style. Will got sick for a bit while I wore myself out trying routes that were too hard for me. I still had fun trying classics such as Pata Negra 8c, Hulk 8b+, Geminis 8b+, and Phillipe Cuisinere 8b/+ and the experience of trying hard is probably what I need. We decided since we didn't have long left in Europe we would go somewhere we knew we could perform and since I love my pockets we decided on the conglomerate of Margalef. I should have given the area more time as after a week and a bit something clicked and I sent two 7c+s and a 7c/+ in quick succession. I'd suggest for other visitors not to have too many expectations for the first week or so here while you get used to the style.
Awesome limestone formations at Rodellar. Will is working El  Delfin 7c+ on the roof of the far arch.

Me on the classic of Rodellar, El Delfin 7c+.
In Rodellar we met Matt from the Blue Mountains who is also travelling over here at the moment. I managed to get him psyched on trying an easy multipitch on the conglomerate of Riglos. I have been wanting to do a route called "Fiesta del Biceps" for ages and it was on my all time list of classics to do. Will wasn't keen so Matt and I did a day trip to climb it between Rodellar and Margalef. It was amazing! 8 pitches of steep jug hauling, all bolted!

Riglos! Fiesta del Biceps is the main chalk line  just right of the central arete.

Matt following the 8 pitch white ladder of Fiesta del Biceps 7a, Riglos.

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