I have come to the end of a productive trip to Yangshuo. I didn’t manage to send the entire line of my mega project up the guts of Lei Pi Shan but I had an amazing time finding, equipping and trying it. It was the route I spent longest on this year and although I could do it in two overlapping sections I didn’t have what it took to link it all. I climbed clean to the half way anchors grading that hard 29 (8a/+) but I would always fall entering the final V8/9 (?) boulder problem at almost 40m! I named the route ‘Storm Born’ keeping in theme with the crag. The entire line will be 32/33 and an absolute classic! Cheers to Derek for the photos.
|The first crux and easiest of Storm Born is the crux of the route Papercut (7c+) which i put up in 2006. Photo Derek Cheng.|
|The second crux of Storm Born almost half way up the Lei Pi Shan cliff. Photo Derek Cheng.|
|Compressing on bad holds about to snatch a slopey jug in the final boulder |
before a sustained 5m end sequence to the chains. Photo Derek Cheng.
Staring up at Lei Pi Shan, my favourite crag in Yangshuo. Photo JJ Obrien.
A back injury in the last two weeks and a year of climbing catching up with my body meant I had to take a step back and so I climbed some classics I hadn’t done as well as a couple of easier first ascents. The new crag called Dragon City, which will be in the next guidebook, had a lot of potential and I found a nice thin vertical face on which I equipped and freed ‘City of Dreams’ at 27/8 (7c/+) on my second last day. Thanks to JJ for taking some cool shots! Check out his stylish climbing blog at jjobrienclimbing.blogspot.com.au
|Thin face in the crux of City of Dreams 27/8? Photo JJ Obrien|
|Not a lot of holds on this wall! Photo JJ Obrien.|
|The initial slab of 'City of Dreams'. Photo JJ Obrien.|
I am now back in Perth and have had almost a week off. Its Christmas time catching up with the family and my body is slowly healing. Climbing plans are already forming for next year. Plans I need to work a job around!