The best season is over here in Liming. It is getting hot and humid and any day now it will start to pour down with rain. Since I sent The Firewall route I haven’t red-pointed anything major. I had the usual post hard send lull were I needed a short break from trying hard. It was good to visit a few of the crags I hadn’t been to and try a few of the classic 5.11 and 5.12 graded routes. I even added something quite out of the ordinary for Liming, a mixed route that leaves the crack systems and involves a world cup style running dyno boulder problem.
|Mike on his Flight of the Locust 5.12c extension at The Guardian crag. Photo: Myself.|
After a while I went up to The Honeycomb Dome 15m long roof project. I had my eye on this while working The Firewall. I had been told that it wouldn’t get done anytime soon and was ridiculously hard. It is one of the standout lines you can see from the valley floor along with The Firewall. I am reasonably good on roofs due to my core being quite strong, one of the advantages of being short. My first shot went really well. I only tried 2/3 of the climb as we didn’t have enough of the right gear with us but I eventually got all the moves. A section of .75 crack which, I was told would be exceptionally hard, ended up passable by getting two bad jams and inverting your body so as to lead with your feet into a wider section of the crack. I thought it wouldn’t be too hard to send at roughly 5.13b/c.
|A layback tight hands start leads to a bad stem and more tight hands. All project photos: Kate Sabo.|
|A powerful undercling traverse.|
|Nice slopey heal toe.|
|The poor rest.|
|Entering the first crux.|
|Tense your hands and hope they don't pop out!|
|The middle section isn't too hard but surprisingly physical.|
|My pre-placed high point for this trip.|
|Entering the final boulder.|
|My left hand is on only by a single knuckle. Feet first to the anchor.|